Cooking School: Oysters

A how-to guide to shucking and preparing oysters at home

Cooking School: Oysters

From the West Coast’s kumamoto oysters to malpeques from Prince Edward Island, oysters are grown, and eaten, across Canada. Often enjoyed raw, served on the half shell, even the most adventurous oyster lovers typically save their experience for restaurants or at one of the many outdoor festivals touting the joys of this sea creature.

Many aren’t sure what to look for in purchasing fresh oysters or are intimidated to shuck at home. When shopping for oysters, look for healthy ones that will respond to a tap on their shell by clamping shut. Once shucked, oysters should be plump and creamy white or grey in colour, though some oysters are pale red, yellow or green. The liquor should be clear, not cloudy.

For advice on what to do with them once you’ve bought oysters, turn to Tide & Vine co-owner Mike Langley.

Langley and his partner Kat met working in an oyster house in downtown Toronto. Not having the luxury of investors or trust funds, they had to think creatively about opening their own restaurant. “Originally we thought of selling oysters off the back of an old Volkswagen pickup truck with the fold down sides,” he says. “After looking for a few weeks we found a 1974 pop-up camper van that suited our needs and Pearl the Shuck Truck was born.”

Tide & Vine sets up at large events all over the Niagara Peninsula and works closely with wineries, doing wine/oyster pairings, on top of their more typical catering services for parties or weddings. It is fair to say they’ve shucked their fair share of finicky oysters.

“Take your time. Shucking a beautiful oyster is not something that happens on your first try. Or even you 500th try,” says Langley. “Oysters are alive and should be treated so. Each one is different, like snowflakes. You can't treat them all the same. You have to find each one's unique curves and contours to open it properly without damaging the beautiful and delicate meat inside. Learn to open a clean, undamaged oyster and the speed will come with time and patience.

Competitive oyster shuckers, like Langley, know the importance of a good knife.

“I've seen custom made knives — stainless steal, cheap metals, plastic handles, wooden handles,” he says. “I use a Richards with a wooden handle and a shortened metal blade. It's not rustproof but a little steal wool or sandpaper cleans it up nice and if you wash it up and dry it off after use it's good to go. Everyone is different. Find your groove and go with it.”

When it comes to pairing oysters with wine, Langley says that sauvignon blanc is a go to for a lot of people. He also recommends a dry Riesling. “But I must say that recently I have found some masculine, spicy rose wines that work very nice with oysters,” he says.

However, not everyone slurps down a raw mollusk with glee. Not even Langley. But he even has suggestions for those more unsure individuals.

“I found that like most foods, when you heated the oyster the flavour would intensify and all the "fishiness" would take over,” he says. “Acid cuts the salt so lemon got me past that. Also there is the Po'Boy sandwich that’s breaded and fried oysters with lettuce and tomato on a white bun. A nice thick slice of pickle gives the acidity you want to cut the salinity from the oyster. And when all else fails, well, top one with cheese and bacon, toss that puppy in the oven and enjoy the gooey, salty goodness.”

Try out a few of these recipes to experience the sweet, briney goodness of oysters at home.

Breaded Oysters

World’s Easiest Oyster Stew

Oysters with Chili, Ginger & Rice Wine Vinegar

Oyster Po’ Boy

Oysters with a Classic Mignotte Recipe

Lead image by pointnshoot

Amanda Allison's picture

Amanda Allison

Amanda Allison is Wine Access' Web Editor & Ontario Bureau Chief. She is a journalism graduate with a love for both wine and food. A passionate storyteller, Amanda has written stories appearing in print and online.

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