Canadian Content: Atlantic

Many Faces of l’Acadie

By: Craig Pinhey

This versatile white grape is perfectly at home in Atlantic Canada

Discussing the many faces of l’Acadie sounds like an essay on the cultural influence of French Atlantic Canadians, but it actually represents the wide range of wines made with the L’Acadie grape. The anchor of the current white wine industry in the region, l’Acadie arrived unheralded in the 1970s, known only as V-53621, a product of the Vineland, Ontario research station, rejected as inappropriate for Ontario terroir.

After experiencing success at Kentville’s Agricultural Research Station and Dr. Norman Morse’s vineyards in the Annapolis Vallery, the winter hardy V-53621 was first made commercially by Roger Dial at Domaine de Grand Pré in the early ’80s, when it was christened l’Acadie blanc in honour of the region’s French settlers.

It is now the most planted wine-grape in the east, produced by virtually every Atlantic Winery, including those in PEI and New Brunswick.

What is most impressive about this grape is its versatility. While often compared to chardonnay, and sometimes sauvignon blanc and riesling, ’Acadie has forged its own unique identity. Known mainly for its grassy and citrus aromatics, with hints of white flowers and minerality, good body and length, L’Acadie has become much more than just a dry table wine to drink with the region’s famous seafood — although it is perfect for that.

There are crisp, bone-dry versions, oak aged “Reserve” l’Acadie, some with extended lees contact, grapefruity versions from lengthy cold soaking, off-dry fruity and floral sippers, fizzed-up l’Acadie, serious traditional method sparkling l’Acadie brut, and dessert versions, including one made from dried grapes and at least one icewine: Hans Christian Jost’s historic 1996 Solstice Ice. L’Acadie also ends up in various blended wines, including rosé.

What is it about this grape, basically unknown outside the Maritimes, that allowed it to become the signature grape of an entire region? “The grape is physiologically ripe at moderate sugar levels and balanced acidity,” explains Bruce Ewert of L’Acadie Vineyards. “That aspect was a big reason why we moved back to Nova Scotia.” Ewert, an organic and sparkling specialist with experience in British Columbia and elsewhere, decided to open a winery in the Gaspereau Valley with his wife, where he has explored the various facets of l’Acadie.

It is common for l’Acadie to be harvested at under 20 Brix, yet still produce varietally clear, fruity white wines, much the way riesling does, with good acidity. This makes it ideal for sparkling wine and balanced, off-dry to sweet wines.
Ewert’s award winning l’Acadie Star utilizes extensive skin contact. His impressive Vintage Brut is 100 percent l’Acadie, aged over three years on the lees in the traditional method. His Soleil is a decadent dessert wine made from l’Acadie grapes dried to around 40 Brix, using the Italian recioto method.

All these variations work well, as do the oak aged Reserve at Domaine de Grand Pré, the sweetish Cote St. Georges from Jost, and the dry, crisp versions made by most of the wineries.

It doesn’t seem to matter what you do with old V-53621 — l’Acadie, with its fresh face, continues to shine, lighting up the east coast wine scene.

90 2007 l'Acadie Vineyards l'Acadie Solieil

Gaspereau Valley, Nova Scotia, Canada

NS $27/200mL winery

This luscious dessert wine will make you think you are drinking an Old
World classic. Made from dried l'Acadie blanc, this wine exhibits
apricot and honey aromas and flavours, rich creamy body and intense
sweetness. Drying increased Brix from 20 to 42, resulting in
icewine-like concentration, with a much lower price tag. 10 per cent
alcohol makes it very drinkable, and the refreshing acid and long
finish don't hurt either. Drink on its own or with fruit and
custard-based desserts. (CP)